How to Truly Eat Well | Books Insights on In Defense of Food by Michael Pollan
发布时间 2023-01-04 15:00:48 来源
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Animal Snow Instinctively What's Good for Them and What's Not? Why are humans the only animals that need help when deciding what to eat? There's so much baffling advice and opinion available on the subject of healthy eating that we're left feeling anxious and confused.
动物在遇到食物时本能地知道什么是对它们有益的，什么不是？为什么人类是唯一需要帮助决定食物的动物呢？关于健康饮食的主题有很多令人困惑的建议和观点，让我们感到焦虑和困惑。
New York Times writer Michael Pollan thinks we do need help, but not from nutritionists. Pollan's 2006 bestseller, the Omnivores dilemma, a natural history of four meals, was a critique of the highly industrialized food chain that supplies most people's food in the US and Western Europe. In defensive food was his way of answering his reader's most frequent question. If we are told that so many things are not good for us, what should we eat? The book, subtitled, and Edor's Manifesto has been a big influence in the so-called Foodie movement since its initial publication in 2008.
《纽约时报》作家迈克尔·波兰认为我们确实需要帮助，但不是由营养学家提供。波兰的2006年畅销书《杂食动物的困境：四餐的自然历史》是对大多数美国和西欧人的食品供应的高度工业化食品链的批评。《防御性食品》是他回答读者最频繁的问题的方式。如果我们被告知很多东西对我们不好，我们应该吃什么？这本书的副标题是“食之宣言”，自2008年首次发行以来一直对所谓的“美食家运动”产生了很大影响。
Its focus on where food comes from has helped fuel the growth of farmer's markets and artisan food suppliers, and the book became the basis of a PBS documentary. Pollan offers persuasive and eloquent advice on how to plot our escape from the typical Western diet. Even more importantly, his Manifesto aims to restore food to its rightful place as a source of health and happiness. Food is not simply fuel, it is a source of love, life, and culture.
它专注于食物来自哪里，促使了农夫市场和工匠食品供应商的增长，这本书成为PBS纪录片的基础。波兰提供了有力和雄辩的建议，教我们如何逃离典型的西方饮食。更重要的是，他的宣言旨在将食物恢复到应有的健康和幸福源泉。食物不仅仅是燃料，它是爱情、生活和文化的源泉。
Let's now go into the book in more depth, focusing on three key themes. First, the rise of nutrition as opposed to eating. Second, the Western diet and why it is making us so ill. And third, Pollan's axioms for eating and living well.
现在让我们更深入地探讨这本书，重点放在三个关键主题上。首先，营养的崛起与进食不同。第二，西方饮食以及为什么它让我们这么不健康。第三，波兰的饮食和生活准则。
Let's start with how nutritionism began. In 1977, a U.S. government select committee published the first set of guidelines about how ordinary people should eat. Crucially, these shifted the blame from foodstuffs, such as meat and dairy, to individual nutrients such as saturated fat. Initially, the guidelines had simply recommended eating less meat and fewer dairy products.
我们先从营养主义的起源开始说起。1977年，美国政府的选择委员会发布了第一套关于普通人如何进食的指南。关键在于，这些指南将责任从食品如肉类和乳制品转移到了个体营养素比如饱和脂肪。最初，这些指南只是建议减少肉类和乳制品的摄入。
But the food industry lobbied government for a rephrasing. People were now told not to eat less meat and dairy, but to eat in a way that reduced their saturated fat intake. This immediately made the advice more difficult to follow, and meant that people were dependent on nutritionists to tell them how much saturated fat different foods contained. This also led to an even bigger detriment.
但食品行业游说政府修改措辞。人们现在被告知不是少吃肉和乳制品，而是要以减少饱和脂肪摄入的方式来饮食。这立即使得建议更难遵循，意味着人们需要营养学家告诉他们不同食物含有多少饱和脂肪。这也导致更大的损害。
Here is Pollan speaking at an RSA event. A lot of our problem around food traces to the ideology we bring when we walk through a supermarket or navigate a restaurant menu. The label I use for that ideology is nutritionism. Pollan is careful to distinguish between the science of nutrition and what he calls nutritionism. That is an ideology that is arisen among scientists, food marketers, and even governments. It says that it's not food itself that matters, but the individual nutrients it contains, and we need experts to tell us about them. The sole purpose of eating is to maintain health and avoid disease.
这里是波兰在RSA活动中的演讲。我们在食物方面的很多问题都源于我们在超市或餐厅菜单上走过时带来的意识形态。我为那种意识形态取名为营养主义。波兰谨慎地区分了营养科学和他所称的营养主义。这是一种在科学家、食品营销商甚至政府之间出现的意识形态。它认为重点不在于食物本身，而在于它所包含的单独营养成分，我们需要专家来告诉我们它们的作用。吃饭唯一的目的就是维持健康和避免疾病。
The result is that over the last few decades, the old sources of wisdom about what to eat, traditional food cultures, usually embodied by our mothers and grandmothers, have been replaced by official advice and guidelines. These are often influenced by food manufacturers whose priorities are not our good health. The story of Marjorin shows how bad for our health this way of thinking can be.
结果是，在过去的几十年中，有关食物吃什么的智慧的旧来源，即传统饮食文化，通常是由我们的母亲和祖母体现的，已被官方建议和指南所取代。这些通常受到食品制造商的影响，他们的优先事项并不是我们的健康。马约林的故事展示了这种思维对我们的健康有多么有害。
Made from hydrogenated vegetable oils, Marjorin was invented as a cheap substitute for butter. It was marketed as a healthier alternative because the fats it contained were polyunsaturated rather than saturated. The only problem is, more and more studies were showing a negative link between the consumption of trans fats found in some marjorins and heart disease. It now seems likely that Marjorin, at least in its earliest formulations, was more harmful to our health than butter. Public health bodies, pollen, observes, are still reluctant to admit this mistake.
玛琪琳是由氢化植物油制成的，作为黄油的廉价替代品而发明的。由于其中含有的脂肪是多不饱和而不是饱和的，因此被营销为更健康的选择。唯一的问题是，越来越多的研究显示，一些玛琪琳中含有的反式脂肪酸与心脏疾病之间存在负面联系。现在看来，至少在最初的配方中，玛琪琳对我们的健康比黄油更有害。公共卫生机构，花粉鉴定师指出，仍然不愿承认这个错误。
Many studies have called into question the low fat orthodoxy that has held sway for many decades, partly because of what the fat is tended to be replaced with. Sugar. The campaign against fats, as pollen, is nutritionism's central failure. The advice to switch to low fat foods encouraged people to eat more processed foods, which sometimes turned out to be harmful. During the 1980s and 90s, food labels got longer and longer.
许多研究质疑了持续了几十年的低脂教条，部分原因是因为所替代脂肪的东西往往是糖。就像花粉一样，战胜脂肪的运动是营养主义的主要失败之处。建议转向低脂食品的做法鼓励了人们吃更多加工食品，有时会带来危害。在20世纪80年代和90年代，食品标签越来越长。
Any perceived nutritional deficiencies in foodstuffs could be compensated for by additives. Eggs could have their omega-3 fatty acids thanks to chickens being fed flax seeds, and a wave of trendy foods were championed for their superior nutritional qualities. Superfoods. Today's examples include pomegranates and quinoa. We're born.
我们可以通过添加剂弥补食物中任何被认为存在的营养缺乏。鸡吃亚麻籽可以使鸡蛋含有omega-3脂肪酸，一些潮流美食因其高超的营养品质而备受推崇。这些“超级食品”例如石榴和藜麦。我们出生了。
Processed food manufacturers got fully on board with this. The Mars Corporation even founded a chair in chocolate science at the University of California. Processed foods with alluring health claims proliferated. It turns out that nutritionism was about the best thing that could have happened to the food industry.
"加工食品制造商完全接受了这一理念。马氏公司甚至在加州大学成立了巧克力科学专业。广告宣传有健康益处的加工食品不断增加。事实证明，营养主义对食品行业来说是最好的事情之一。"
But the most grievous charge that pollen charges nutritionism with is this. The emphasis on nutrients and eating purely for health creates an error of disapproval of eating for pleasure. Here is pollen describing that disassociation in the RSA talk. The whole point of eating is about health. That when we eat this activity takes place on a spectrum that ranges from destroying your health on one end to redeeming your health on the other. Not only has it made us less healthy, nutritionism has taken away one of the great pleasures of life. Eating. It is even led to a new form of illness, orthorexia nervosa, or an obsession with eating foods one believes to be healthy.
但是，花粉对营养主义最严厉的谴责是这样的。强调营养物质和仅仅为了健康而吃饭，会产生一种不赞成为了享受而吃饭的错误观念。这里是花粉在RSA演讲中描述这种分离的情况。吃饭的整个重点是为了健康。当我们进食时，这一活动发生的范围从毁坏健康到修复健康。营养主义不仅使我们变得更不健康，还夺走了生活中一个伟大的乐趣，那就是吃饭。它甚至导致了一种新的疾病——正常厨房恐惧症，或者是对认为健康的食物的过度迷恋。
The modern politician likes to capitalize on this, promoting themselves as the common man. Think of Trump's fried chicken takeaways on Air Force One. Bill Clinton's much advertised love of Big Macs, or how every campaigning British leader is seen having to eat. The next leader is seen having a pint at a local pub. The politicians are onto something. Making food choices purely based on nutrition, omitting its pleasurable elements, robs food of its cultural background and history. What we eat is who we are.
现代政治家喜欢利用这种情况，将自己宣传成普通人。想想特朗普在空军一号上吃炸鸡外卖。比尔·克林顿广告宣传自己对大麦克的喜爱，或者每个竞选的英国领导者都被看做必须吃东西。下一个领导人会在当地酒吧喝一杯啤酒。政治家们正在做正确的事情。纯粹基于营养选择食物，忽略了它的愉悦元素，剥夺了食物的文化背景和历史。我们所吃的就是我们的身份。
Nutritionism wouldn't be so bad if nutritional science was beyond reproach, but it's not. It's hard to design good quality studies because multiple compounds are present in every food stuff. These are affected by being cooked in different ways, eaten in combination with different things, and then digested by bodies that process food differently. There are the confounding factors of lifestyle and activity levels, and a dependence on people to report their food consumption accurately, which we're notoriously poor at doing. Pollons conclusion? Science is a questionable tool for deciding what to eat.
营养主义也不至于那么糟糕，如果营养科学毫无破绽，但实际上并非如此。因为每种食物中都含有多个化合物，难以设计高质量的研究。这些化合物会受到不同的烹调方式、与其他食物搭配食用以及不同身体对食物消化的影响。此外，生活方式和活动水平也是混淆因素，我们很难准确地报告自己的食物摄入量。因此，科学并不是决定我们食用什么的可靠工具。
We'll wrap up for now, but let's first recap what we've learned today. We're covering, in-defensive food, Michael Pollons follow up to his bestseller, the Omnivores Dilemma. We've gone over the start of nutritionism, a populist movement that favored trendy diets and eating habits over realistic behavior.
我们现在要结束了，但首先让我们回顾一下今天学到的东西。我们正在讨论无防卫食品，迈克尔·波伦（Michael Pollon）继他的畅销书《杂食动物的困惑》后的后续作品。我们已经讨论了营养主义的起源，这是一场民粹主义运动，它更青睐时髦的饮食和饮食习惯，而不是现实的行为。
When we return, we'll cover why Western diets make us sick. Enjoying this episode of Book Insights? If so, people listening and learning. There's a collection of over 100 titles you can read or listen to now at memodeapp.com slash insights. That's m-e-m-o-d-a-p-p.com slash insights.
等我们回来，我们会讲解为什么西方饮食会使我们生病。喜欢这一集的《书籍洞察力》吗？如果是的话，可以让更多人来收听和学习。现在，有超过100个标题可以在memodeapp.com/insights上阅读或听取。记住，是m-e-m-o-d-a-p-p.com/insights。
We're continuing our exploration into Michael Pollons' book on the way we eat. It's called In-defensive Food, an Eater's Manifesto. Previously, we've covered the Historical Foundation of Nutritionism, a term Pollon made up to identify the favoring of trends, bad diets, and misinformation. Now we're going to go further in depth with the effects of nutritionism. We'll look at how Western diets are failing us.
我们正在继续探索迈克尔·波隆(Michael Pollons)的书籍，该书涉及我们进食方式的主题。这本书名叫《无防御的食物——吃者的宣言》。之前，我们已经介绍了营养主义的历史基础，这个词是波隆创造的，用于指代流行趋势，不健康的饮食和错误的信息筛选。现在我们将更深入地了解营养主义的影响。我们将看看西方饮食如何让我们失望。
Pollon finds the earliest contributor to bad Western diets his agriculture. Here is Pollon explaining this to Bill Mar on real time. Then we invented agriculture, which by the way, at the beginning made us really sick. Radical change in the diet, we went for meeting a great diversity of plants and animals, who eating lots of grain, and narrowing our diet down to just a few different substances.
波伦发现了造成西方不良饮食的最早贡献者——农业。波伦在实时节目中向比尔马尔解释了这一点。然后我们发明了农业，一开始真的让我们很不舒服。我们的饮食发生了根本性变化，我们开始摄入各种各样的植物和动物，大量摄入谷物，最终将我们的饮食限定在了很少几种不同的物质上。
Pollon cites a 1982 study of 10 Aboriginal men who had suffered badly from type 2 diabetes since adopting a store-based Western diet. Closely observed by researchers, the men went back to their previous diet, which was based solely on foraging and hunting. Their health showed a striking improvement within weeks. Although effects like this are more pronounced in people who suddenly adopt a Western-style diet, type 2 diabetes has risen 5% annually in the US population since 1990, and 25% of all Americans suffer from metabolic syndrome, a precursor to diabetes.
Pollon提到了一项针对10名原住民男性的1982年研究，这些男性因为采用了基于商店购买的西式饮食而患有2型糖尿病。在研究者的密切观察下，这些男性回归到其以前仅基于采摘和狩猎的饮食，几周内，他们的健康状态有了惊人的改善。尽管类似的效果在突然采用西式饮食的人中更为显著，但自1990年以来，2型糖尿病在美国人口中每年增加5%，而25%的美国人患有代谢综合征，这是糖尿病的前驱。
Researchers in the early 20th century were the first to observe the lack of diseases like heart disease, cancer, and diabetes in the native populations of Africa, India, Asia, and many other places.
20世纪初，研究人员最先观察到非洲、印度、亚洲和许多其他地方土著人口缺乏心脏病、癌症和糖尿病等疾病。
Pollon recalls the work of Western Price, a dentist who, wondering why Westerners needed so much dental work, published pioneering findings in 1935 that demonstrated the importance of good quality soil and the disease-protecting effects of traditional diets. He found no single ideal diet among the many he studied. Some were plant-based, some exclusively meat and dairy, but the common denominator was a non-Western diet of fresh foods from animals and plants reared on nutrient-rich soil.
波隆回忆起西方普莱斯的工作，他是一位牙医，好奇为什么西方人需要如此多的牙科工作。在1935年，他发表了开创性的研究成果，表明好质量的土壤和传统饮食对于保护健康的重要性。他发现在他研究的许多饮食中，没有理想的单一饮食。有些是以植物为基础的，有些则完全以肉类和奶制品为主，但共同点是非西方的饮食，其中含有从营养丰富的土壤上生长出的动植物的新鲜食物。
Other critiques of industrialized agriculture soon followed, highlighting how the links between local food, local soil, and local peoples were broken. Our personal health cannot be divorced from the health of the entire food web, Pollon observes.
其他关于工业化农业的批判很快出现了，强调当地食品、当地土壤和当地人民之间的联系已经被打破。波隆指出，我们的个人健康与整个食物链的健康密不可分。
Traditional diets are based on interconnected food chains that depend on gradual adaptation, on knowledge of how food is produced, on the ability to use our senses to determine ripeness, and on knowing how to combine different foods through trial and error. They are also based on foods that are whole and unprocessed.
传统饮食基于相互联系的食物链，需要逐渐适应、了解食物生产过程、利用我们的感官确定成熟度，并通过试错来了解如何组合不同的食物。它们还基于食物是完整、未加工的。
The recent changes in our eating have happened so rapidly that our bodies haven't had the chance to adapt. Pollon lists five key problems with the Western diet. First, a move from whole foods to refined or processed foods, starting with the first refined white wheat flowers during the industrial revolution. Refining removes many of the nutrients from wheat grains, but extends their shelf life.
我们的饮食最近发生了如此迅速的变化，以至于我们的身体还没有适应的机会。 Pollon列出了西方饮食的五个关键问题。首先是从整食变成精致或加工食品，从工业革命开始，就从第一批精制白小麦面粉开始。精制会从小麦粒中去除许多营养物质，但可以延长它们的保质期。
Second, a move from complexity to simplicity. Our soils are now mostly fertilized with a simple mixture of nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium, which ignores the immense biological diversity needed to develop a full range of nutrients and plants. The same trend is seen in the much narrower range of plant species grown, and therefore consumed by us. Four species, corn, soy, wheat, and rice now make up two-thirds of the entire calorie content of the Western diet.
首先，我们应该从复杂性走向简单。我们现在使用简单的氮、磷和钾混合物来施肥，忽略了生物多样性对于植株营养和生长所需的重要性。同样的趋势也在植物品种的种植范围方面出现，因此影响了人类的饮食。仅有玉米、大豆、小麦和稻子这四种作物的热量总量，现已占据西方饮食的三分之二。
Third, a move from quality to quantity. In the quest to reduce food prices, agricultural yields are prioritized above all else, which means a reduction in nutritional content. We now have to eat more to gain the same nutritional benefit, a concept known as nutritional inflation.
第三，从质量到数量的转变。在降低食品价格的追求中，农业产量被优先考虑，这意味着营养含量的降低。我们现在必须多吃一些才能获得相同的营养益处，这就是营养膨胀的概念。
A fourth problem with the Western diet is a shift from leaves to seeds. Grain like soy and wheat, on which we rely heavily, are the most efficient converters of soil nutrients and sunlight into energy. Leaves provide other critical nutrients, especially amino acids that the body can't synthesize, like the much-fetted omega-3 fatty acids. In fact, we can live without seeds, whose energy we can find from other sources, but not without leaves.
西方饮食的第四个问题是从叶子转向种子。我们严重依赖的大豆和小麦等粮食是土壤养分和阳光转化为能量的效率最高的。叶子提供其他关键营养素，特别是身体不能合成的氨基酸，如备受推崇的 omega-3 脂肪酸。事实上，我们可以没有种子，可以从其他来源获取其能量，但不能没有叶子。
Pauline discusses at length the fatty acid debate, which has received much press attention in recent years. Omega-3s, found in leaves, are the heroes, while omega-6s, found in grains, are the villains. The beneficial effects of the omega-3s have been found in so many places, from improved eyesight to homicide prevention, that he likenes the zeal of omega-3 researchers to Dr. Kassabin's single-minded devotion to his key to all mythologies in middle-march.
保琳详细地讨论了近年来备受媒体关注的脂肪酸争议。在叶子中发现的Omega-3是英雄，而在谷物中发现的Omega-6则是恶棍。Omega-3的好处在很多地方都得到了证明，从改善视力到预防杀人案，她将Omega-3研究人员的热情比作Kassabin博士对中部镇所有神话的钥匙的执着。
The fifth problem of the Western diet is a move from food culture to food science. Nutritionism has been co-opted to help sell more than 17,000 new food products each year. Even the healthcare industry, in the US at least, stands to benefit from the increase in Western diseases, as it develops more and more ways to cope with the rise in chronic diseases. Here is Michael Moss pointing out what he sees in the supermarket to Pauline for the New York Times. It seems like such a tranquil atmosphere here, quiet, peaceful music, smells okay, but behind these shelves is the most fiercely competitive industry there is. Capitalism is more adaptive than the human body, Pauline Riley observes.
西方饮食的第五个问题是从食品文化转向食品科学。营养主义被利用来帮助销售每年超过17,000种新的食品产品。甚至在美国，医疗保健行业也会受益于西方疾病的增加，因为它正在开发越来越多的应对慢性疾病的方法。这是迈克尔·莫斯向纽约时报的保琳展示在超市里看到的事物。这里看起来非常宁静，音乐安静，气味还可以，但是这些货架背后是最激烈的竞争行业。保琳·莱利观察到，资本主义比人体更具适应性。
Nutritionism has left us with diets and a surfeit of calories, and way too much fat, sugar, and refined carbohydrates. The Western diet encourages unnecessarily large portions, a reliance on processed and fast food, a steep drop in cooking at home, and a marked increase in eating in places other than a dining table. Rising obesity rates and deaths from diabetes, heart disease, and certain cancers all have demonstrable links to diet and have been termed the Western diseases.
营养学主义让我们陷入了饮食中的卡路里过剩、过多的脂肪、糖和精制碳水化合物的困境。西方饮食鼓励吃过多的食物，过度依赖加工和速食，家庭烹饪急剧下降，同时在餐桌以外吃东西的趋势明显增加。肥胖率和糖尿病、心脏疾病和某些癌症的死亡率上升，这些都与饮食有着显著的联系，并被称为西方疾病。
Let's wrap up for now. We're covering Michael Pauline's indefensive food. This time we've gone over how Western diets take away the nutrients our bodies need. Commercial interests and misinformation have us lost in our health standards. We'll conclude next time with how to fix our broken understanding of food.
让我们暂时结束吧。我们正在谈论迈克尔·保琳无防御食品。这一次，我们讲述了西方饮食如何剥夺我们身体所需的营养成分。商业利益和错误信息让我们迷失在健康标准中。下次我们将总结如何修复我们对食品的错误理解。
Enjoying this episode of Book Insights? If so, keep listening and learning. There's a collection of over 100 titles you can read or listen to now at memodeapp.com slash insights. That's M-E-M-O-D-A-P-P.com slash insights.
喜欢这一集《书籍洞见》吗？如果是这样，请继续收听和学习。你现在可以在memodeapp.com/insights上阅读或收听超过100种书目的合集。
We're concluding our look into indefensive food. It's Michael Pauline's follow-up to his bestseller, The Omnivores Dilemma. Previously, we've gone over nutritionism, an ideology that put nutrients before food itself. Then we went over how this affects us and the five reasons why Western diets are failing.
我们正在结束对无防御食品的研究。这是迈克尔·保林的畅销书《杂食动物的困境》的后续作品。之前，我们讲述了营养主义，一种将营养素放在食品本身之前的意识形态。然后我们探讨了它如何影响我们以及西方食谱失败的五个原因。
As we've learned so far, food isn't just about supplying yourself with nutrients. Eating is something more. Here is Pauline in his RSA talk. People have eaten for a great many other equally legitimate reasons. Let's see if we can remember a few of them. Pleasure. Remember that?
就我们目前所学，食物不仅仅是供给你营养物质。吃东西意味着更多。这里是保琳在她的RSA演讲中。人们吃东西有很多其他同样正当的原因。让我们看看能否记起其中的一些。享受。还记得那个吗？
Now, we'll look at the recipe for a long, healthy life. In the final section of the book, Pauline sets out his advice for how we can escape the malign influence of nutritionism and the Western diet. Here's Pauline laying out his plan for PBS. Well, there's another option. We can take the more practical, the more economical, and the more beautiful path, which is simply to change the way we're eating. He's not interested in telling us what to have for dinner tonight, but instead offers guiding principles to keep in mind when shopping, cooking, and eating.
现在，我们要看一下长寿健康的食谱。在这本书的最后一部分，保罗林列出了他的建议，告诉我们如何摆脱营养主义和西方饮食的恶性影响。以下是保罗林为PBS展示他的计划。嗯，还有另一种选择。我们可以采取更实用、更经济、更美丽的方式，就是改变我们的饮食方式。他不是要告诉我们今晚要吃什么晚餐，而是提供指导原则，让我们在购物、烹饪和进餐时牢记。
We cannot rely on scientific studies for the solution. We must turn instead to more ancient eating wisdom. Is it possible to do this without adopting the diets of our ancestors, which hold little appeal for most of us? He tries to make his advice as simple as possible. Pauline makes perhaps the most famous statement of the book. Don't eat anything your great-grandmother wouldn't recognize as food. In other words, exclude anything that would baffle her in the supermarket aisle.
我们不能依靠科学研究来解决问题。相反，我们必须转向更古老的饮食智慧。但是，对我们大多数人来说，采用我们祖先的饮食方式可能并不吸引人，那么我们是否能以其他方式完成呢？作者试图尽可能简单地提供建议。保琳可能是该书中最著名的陈述者。她说：不要吃任何你的曾祖母无法认出为食物的东西。换句话说，排除任何会让她在超市走廊里感到困惑的食物。
Eat food, not Frankenstein food that's been invented in a lab or is the end result of a marketing team's idea. Next up, avoid food products that list ingredients which are unfamiliar, unpronounceable, more than five in number, or include high fructose corn syrup. Even if not always bad in themselves, these things tend to indicate a high level of processing. Link to this is avoid food products that make health claims. The mere presence of a package indicates processing, and whole foods don't often have well-funded marketing campaigns behind them.
吃食物，不要吃实验室里发明的或营销团队想出的“弗兰肯斯坦食品”。其次，要避免食品成分表上未知或难以发音的成分，成分不能超过五种，或含有高果糖玉米糖浆。即使它们本身并不总是有害的，但这些东西往往表示加工的水平很高。此外，还应避免食品产品声称具有健康效益。包装的存在本身就意味着加工，而整个食品往往没有背后有资金充足的营销宣传活动。
The U.S. Food Regulation Body, the FDA, comes under fire from Pauline here because of the invention of qualified health claims. In 2002, presumably under pressure from food manufacturers, it authorized a new type of health claim accompanied by a disclaimer that the FDA concludes there is little evidence supporting this claim, which can be displayed in any way the manufacturer sees fit. Not surprisingly, this usually means very small print.
美国食品监管机构FDA因引入“合格健康声明”而受到Pauline的批评。在2002年，据信受到食品制造商的压力，FDA批准了一种新类型的健康声明，并伴随着一份免责声明，该声明表示FDA认为支持这种声明的证据很少，制造商可以以任何方式展示它。毫不意外的是，这通常意味着非常小的字体。
Another of Pauline's principles is shop the peripheries of the supermarket and stay out of the middle. This is because fresh, whole produce is usually displayed around the edges. Preferably, get out of the supermarket whenever possible. Here are Pauline and food writer Michael Moss navigating a typical supermarket for the New York Times. Look at the sweep of this kind of real estate territory. This is a cliff of sugar, bit. Dying large, right? Yeah, with little passes in between where you can try to sort of navigate yourself to get to the more whole foods.
保琳的另一个原则是购物要去超市的边角，避免走中间。这是因为新鲜的整体食品通常会展示在边角。最好尽可能地走出超市。以下是保琳和美食作家迈克尔·莫斯为《纽约时报》探访一家典型的超市。看看这种地产领域的广大规模。这是一堵糖的悬崖，充满危险。很大，对吧？是的，在其中间有一些小间隔，可以试图向那些更全面的食品方向寻找前进的路径。
The shorter the food chain, the better, because small farms tend to plant more diverse crops and have better quality soil. Food reclaims its story and some of its nobility when the person who grew it, hands it to you. Pauline says. Next, the book's simplest and perhaps best advice. Eat food, mostly plants, not too much. Nearly every study concludes that eating more vegetables and whole grains makes us healthier. He is not against eating a small amount of meat because it is still nutritionally beneficial, even if not essential. Eating less than a portion per day doesn't seem to come with any health risks.
食物链越短，越好，因为小农场往往种植更多种类的作物，土壤质量也更好。保罗琳说，当种植食物的人将其交到你手中时，食物重新拥有了自己的故事和一些尊贵的地位。接下来，这本书提供的最简单且也许是最好的建议是：吃食物，尤其是植物，不要吃太多。几乎每项研究都得出结论，多吃蔬菜和全谷类有益健康。作者并不反对少量摄入肉类，因为它仍具有营养益处，即使不是必要的。每天食用不到一份的肉类似乎没有任何健康风险。
The diet of animals that you eat matters as much as your own. You are what they eat. Grass-fed animal products are much better than grain-fed ones because leaves are better for them and us. The health of soil is incredibly important in Pauline's view. Organic soil is good, but some food without an organic label is grown in good soil, and organic doesn't automatically mean healthy or unprocessed. We should eat wild rather than farm-grown foods wherever possible. These have developed more antioxidants and other beneficial micronutrients in order to defend themselves from pests and disease.
你们吃的动物的饮食和你们自己的一样重要，因为你是从它们身上吸收营养。草饲养的动物制品比谷饲养的更好，因为叶子对它们和我们都更有益。保罗琳认为土壤的健康非常重要。有机土壤很好，但是一些没有有机标签的食物也是在良好的土壤中种植的。有机不一定意味着健康或未加工。我们应该在可能的情况下尽量吃野生食物。这些食物发展出更多的抗氧化剂和其他有益的微量营养素来抵御害虫和疾病。
Next, a slightly oddball piece of advice. Be the kind of person who takes supplements. Although nutritional supplements themselves don't seem to work, people who take them are healthier, probably because they lead healthier lifestyles and look after themselves.
接下来是一条有些奇怪的建议。成为那种常常补充营养素的人。虽然营养补充剂本身似乎不起作用，但是服用它们的人更健康，可能是因为他们过着更健康的生活方式，并照顾好自己。
Interestingly, Pauline notes that since natural selection is less interested in life preservation once we are past child-bearing age, our bodies are less good at absorbing antioxidants as we age, even though we need them more. So it might be a good idea for the over 50s to take a multivitamin.
有趣的是，Pauline指出，由于我们过了生育年龄后，自然选择对生命保护的兴趣减少了，所以我们的身体在老化过程中吸收抗氧化剂的能力会变差，尽管我们更需要它们。因此，五十岁以上的人服用多种维生素可能是一个好主意。
Pauline also advises to eat more like the French, Italians, Japanese, Indians or Greeks. What he means is that it is good to follow any traditional diet, even if that diet includes foods usually thought of as unhealthy.
Pauline 建议饮食更像法国人、意大利人、日本人、印度人或希腊人。他的意思是，遵循任何传统饮食都是好的，即使该饮食中包括通常被认为不健康的食物。
The so-called French paradox is that the French are generally healthier despite consuming a lot of wine and meat. Such diets represent Pauline says, a deep reservoir of accumulated wisdom about diet and health and place, including knowledge of foods that ward off disease. Though good eating is all about dietary patterns and food culture, not individual-star ingredients.
所谓法国悖论是，法国人尽管饮酒和食肉量很大，但通常更健康。Pauline说，这些饮食代表了积累的关于饮食和健康以及地域的深刻智慧，包括那些能抗击疾病的食物知识。虽然良好的饮食习惯与食物文化有关，而不是个别的明星食材。
Pauline suggests that we have a glass of wine with dinner as small amounts of alcohol seem to reduce the risk of heart disease.
Pauline建议我们在晚餐时喝一杯葡萄酒，因为少量的酒精似乎可以降低患心脏病的风险。
Finally, Pauline addresses questions of food habits and culture. By this he means how people eat, not just what they eat. Pay more and eat less is a good rule of thumb. The growth of fast and convenience food has meant that we no longer pay attention or get full enjoyment from our food.
最后，保琳解决了关于食品习惯和文化的问题。他的意思是人们吃饭的方式，而不仅仅是他们吃的食物。多花钱少吃是个好经验之谈。快速和方便食品的增长意味着我们不再关注或从食物中获得充分享受。
Pauline acknowledges that a lot of people can't afford to pay more for food, but many of us can. Eat meals, he says. Avoid stacking and spend more time eating with other people. Many important and good things happen around a dining table, as well as just eating. Sharing the same food is important too, so that portion sizes are dictated by the person serving rather than by a food manufacturer, and we tend to eat a lot slower.
Pauline认识到很多人买不起更贵的食物，但我们中很多人能够承受。他建议吃饭，避免吃零食，花更多的时间和其他人一起进餐。吃饭桌上会发生很多重要和美好的事情，不仅仅是吃饭。共享同样的食物也很重要，这样份量就由服务者决定，而不是由食品制造商决定，我们往往会吃得更慢。
Another rule of thumb is, do all your eating at a table and don't eat alone. As well as all the other benefits, communal meals often place natural limits on consumption. It's much easier to overeat when you're doing something else at the same time as eating. Pauline even recommends introducing a ritual, such as saying grace before meals, to help us slow down and pay attention to what we are about to do.
另一条经验法则是，在桌子上吃所有的食物，不要独自进食。除了其他好处外，共同进餐通常会自然地限制食物的摄入量。当你同时在吃饭时做其他事情时，很容易吃太多。Pauline甚至建议引入一种仪式，例如在进餐前说感恩的话，帮助我们放慢脚步，关注我们即将做的事情。
The final advice in the book is to cook, and if you can, plant a garden. Aside from the health benefits, cooking is the best way to escape the whole culture of fast food and quick eating. When we cook, the traditional culture of the kitchen takes over and we stop worrying about nutrients. We also reclaim control over our food from experts and manufacturers, because we can add whatever we like. A cook may have a great many things to worry about, but health isn't one of them. Just making a meal from scratch is inherently healthy, compared to buying pre-made food and sticking it in the oven.
这本书最后的建议是做饭，如果可能的话，种一些花园。除了健康的益处，做饭是摆脱快餐和速食文化的最佳方式。当我们做饭时，传统的厨房文化接管了一切，我们不再担心营养。我们也从专家和制造商那里重新夺回了对食物的掌控权，因为我们可以加入任何我们喜欢的成分。一个厨师可能有很多事情需要担心，但健康不是其中之一。与购买预制食物并把它放进烤箱相比，只要从头开始制作一顿饭就是本质上健康的。
Michael Pauline wrote, indefensive food over a decade ago. But what if anything has changed since then? Some of his predictions, such as the anti-sugar movement, have certainly come true. Many of the problems with nutritionism are still evident today.
迈克尔·保琳十年前写下了《无辜的食品》一书。但自那时以来，有没有什么变化呢？他的一些预言，比如反糖运动，肯定已经成为现实。许多营养主义的问题今天仍然明显存在。
Governments still regularly issue dietary advice and recommend low-fat alternatives, such as margarine or zero-fat yogurt. Our food anxieties don't seem to be diminishing. The recent trend for so-called clean eating cookbooks and wellness bloggers, whose site aspects of nutritional science, has swelled the ranks of people keen to advise us about how we should be eating. The bogeymen these days are usually gluten or sugar.
政府仍然定期发布饮食建议并推荐低脂替代品，如人造黄油或零脂酸奶。我们对食品的焦虑似乎并没有减弱。最近，所谓的“清洁饮食”食谱和健康博主的潮流，其网站涉及营养科学的方面，已经扩大了那些热衷于向我们建议如何饮食的人群。这些天的妖怪通常是麸质或糖。
The significant rise in people adopting vegetarian and vegan diets indicates that many of us are moving towards a plant-based diet. But many observers have also noticed a widening food gap between those who can afford to eat well and those who can't. This is an issue that some commentators have accused Pauline of dodging.
越来越多的人选择素食或纯素食，这表明我们中的很多人正在向植物为基础的饮食转变。但很多观察家也注意到，那些能够负担得起好食物的人与那些负担不起的人之间的食品差距正在扩大。一些评论家指责Pauline逃避了这个问题。
What we really have him to thank for is releasing us from dietary anxiety, giving us the confidence to make our own decisions and experience the full pleasures of eating and reminding us that we are part of nature and connected to food cultures going back hundreds of years.
我们真正要感谢他的是，让我们摆脱了饮食的焦虑，给予我们信心作出自己的决定并享受美食的全部乐趣，提醒我们我们是自然的一部分，与数百年前的食品文化相联系。
Before we conclude our discussion on indefensive food, let's go over everything we've explored. We've learned that our understanding of health has been corrupted by nutritionism, a misconception of nutrition over food. Then we looked at the history behind our food losing its healthiness.
在我们结束有关不健康食品的讨论之前，让我们回顾一下我们所探讨的所有内容。我们已经知道，我们对健康的理解已经被营养主义所误导，它是关于营养而不是食物的错觉。然后我们看了一下使我们的食物失去健康的历史。
Finally, we've gone over Pauline's well-researched and extensive list of do's and don'ts regarding getting back to the food and eating that counts. We'll end with advice from 18th century French gastronome Jean-Enthaim Brieette Severon. He's had a delicious triple-cream cow's milk cheese named after him. Brieette Severon once said, animals feed themselves, men eat, but only wise men know the art of eating.
最后，我们已经仔细研究了Pauline关于重返重要的食物和饮食的一系列建议。我们最后想分享一下18世纪法国美食家Jean-Enthaim Brieette Severon的建议。他也有一种以他的名字命名的美味三重奶油奶酪。Brieette Severon曾经说过，动物只是进食，人才是吃食物的，而只有智者才知道吃的艺术。
Paragraph 1: In mind that the information provided in or through our book insights episodes is for educational and informational purposes only.
请记住，我们的书籍见解节目中提供的信息仅用于教育和信息目的。
Paragraph 2: It's not intended to be a substitute for advice given by qualified professionals.
第二段：这并不是替代受过专业培训的专家建议的一种方式。
Paragraph 3: It should not be relied upon to disregard or delay seeking professional advice.
第三段：不能依赖它来忽视或延迟寻求专业建议。